hidden europe 7

Through foreign eyes: Fürst Pückler in England

by Nicky Gardner

Summary

a German aristocrat in search of a bride finds that London offers some of best value accommodation in Britain! Nineteenth century England through the eyes of a foreign traveller.

Images of places are often sculpted by foreign travellers. Can we think of Ravenna without seeing it through Byron's eyes? And is not the Andalucía of the mind as much shaped by writers like Gerald Brenan and Laurie Lee as it is by the everyday reality of the place. Both Lee and Brenan unwittingly constructed a heady mythology of gypsies, flamenco, brigands and orange groves that captured the imagination of English speakers and remains even today a potent and positive image for modern Andalucía.

Of course, these things are not all about mythology. The mid nineteenth century French poet, essayist and travel writer, Théophile Gautier, who wrote splendid accounts of his travels to Russia, Spain and elsewhere, has a knack of really capturing the essence of a place, whether it be the "serene melancholy" of the Alhambra in Granada, or coming "face to face with the spectre of civilisation" in Gibraltar.

But what of England?

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In search of a new role: the port city of Szczecin

The shipyards in Szczecin once built some the world's finest and fastest passenger liners. But today the cranes are silent, and the city of Szczecin is struggling to define its role in modern Poland. The Baltic port city is a gritty place, and all the more interesting for that.

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A Silesian Jerusalem: visiting the calvary at Krzeszów

Not far from the Czech border, in the southernmost part of Polish Silesia, lies the monastery of Krzeszów (formerly known by its German name of Grüssau). It was to this quiet spot that manuscripts and books from Berlin were sent for safe keeping in the Second World War. These days, pilgrims make their way to the monastery as a place of prayer.

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From Prussia to Russia: Kaliningrad

With the disintegration of the Soviet Union, the Baltic port of Kaliningrad found itself strangely isolated from the rest of Russia. Hemmed in by the European Union, the city of Kaliningrad is rethinking its role in the modern world. It is a remarkable city in a remarkable region.