hidden europe 23

Children of the Russian century

by Nicky Gardner

Summary

Berlin's most extraordinary cemetery is tucked away in the northwest corner of the city. It is a place where the Mentzels and Morgensterns rub shoulders with Molokans and Old Believers.

I can tell you almost nothing of Misak Arakelyan. He is one of many in the graveyard who were essentially private folk. Men and women never pushed to visibility by Facebook or Google. Most of them were probably never really masters or mistresses of their own destinies, but rather victims of the vicissitudes of European politics. Perhaps they were people who lived for their families, walked in the park and drank a beer or two with friends. Men and women who did an honest day's work, looked back with affection on the distant lands where they had lived as children, and kept the faith. Of one thing we can be certain. Misak, like all who are buried here, was a traveller. These people are the children of the Russian century.

Misak was born in Armenia in 1956 and died last year in Berlin. No obituaries appeared in the newspapers, and Misak was quietly laid to rest in a wooded glade in the northwest corner of the city. It is a patch of land hemmed in by a motorway and a medley of industrial premises: warehouses and workshops. Pause, ignore if you can the roar of traffic on the nearby motorway, and this place has a tranquillity all its own.

This is just an excerpt. The full text of this article is not yet available to members with online access to hidden europe. Of course you can read the full article in the print edition of hidden europe 23.
Related articleFull text online

Conflicts of interest: Mining and World Heritage

UNESCO's World Heritage List includes many citations which showcase former mining activities. The extractive industries have led to the development of some of Europe's most distinctive cultural landscapes. But the recent addition of a gold mining site in Romania to the list sparks tensions between conservation and economic interests.

Related articleFull text online

The lost kingdom

A 1924 essay by Joseph Roth on an unsung railway station in Berlin fired our imagination and inspired us to take the train to Gleisdreieck - an elevated station that in Roth's day looked down on a tangled maze of railway lines and sidings. Nowadays, nature is reclaiming the industrial landscapes of yesteryear.

Related article

Lost at sea: a Frisian tale

There are two sides to Sylt. The east has soggy edges as tidal flats and salt marshes separate Sylt from the German and Danish mainland. The other side can be wild and treacherous, a place where shrapnel spray pounds the beach and bodies are washed ashore.