Exploring cultures and communities – the slow way

Shrovetide is carnival time across much of Europe. A few days of madness in the run-up to Lent subvert the normal order of urban and rural life. Guest contributor Rudolf Abraham reports from Rijeka on a little piece of cultural street theatre that has horned, toothed and exotic creatures dancing on the streets of the Croatian port city.

article summary —

Anyone approaching Rijeka’s waterfront on the first Sunday of this month, would have found a crowd several thousand strong milling around expectantly, chattering and dancing and dressed in outrageous costumes. From black and white harlequins and shimmering blue fish, to soot-smudged chimney sweeps and little red riding hoods, divas, devils and dancing bees.

They are waiting to set off as part of the annual carnival parade — the main event of the wild and wonderful Rijeka Carnival. Held on the Sunday immediately prior to Lent, this is one of the largest Shrovetide carnival processions in Europe — an enormous event with up to 10,000 participants from up to 100 carnival groups, and attracting well over 100,000 spectators. At twelve o’clock sharp the first group swings right onto Ivana Zajca, erupting into song and dance, with music blasting from speakers mounted on elaborate carnival floats.

The carnival tradition in the Croatian city of Rijeka stretches back more than a century. It is part of a much wider Shrovetide carnival scene in Europe — though it was comparatively recently, in 1982, that it took its present form, with the procession cavorting its way along the Korzo, Rijeka’s principal pedestrian artery.

The largest carnival in Europe, by a considerable margin, is of course the Notting Hill Carnival in London — but that takes place in the summer months, not during Shrovetide, and is far removed from the cultural traditions and festivities of Shrovetide carnivals across Europe.

Rijeka’s Carnival Parade sets off from the corner of the Riva and Riva Boduli, just along from the opulent Jadrolinija building — the so-called ‘Adria Palace’, built in 1882. The building is a reminder of Rijeka’s Habsburg heritage, and a reminder too that Austria- Hungary was a serious player in global shipping. The ferry company Jadrolinija, which nowadays plies the Adriatic, is a pale shadow of the once-grand Adria Line — though a ride with Jadrolinija is still the most pleasant way of exploring the Croatian coast and islands. Nearby is a giant mural of a sculpture by Antun Augustincic being loaded onto a ship at Rijeka in 1954. The sculpture, called Vjesnica Mira, was shipped to New York, where it now stands in front of the United Nations building. These scenes are a reminder that Rijeka has always punched above its weight and has made its mark around the world. But Carnival Sunday reveals another Rijeka, a city that for a few jubilant hours ignores the wider world and exists only for itself.

After travelling east along Ivana Zajca to the Mrtvi Kanal, the parade then turns north and back along the Korzo, before returning to the Riva for ongoing festivities. Most spectators gather to watch along either side of the Korzo — which is packed during the parade, so you need to arrive early to stake out a good position with a decent view.

This is just an excerpt. If you are a subscriber to hidden europe magazine, you can log in to read the full text online. Of course you can also read the full article in the print edition of hidden europe 42.


Rudolf Abraham is an award-winning travel writer and photographer specialising in Croatia and Eastern Europe. He is the author of several books including Walking in Croatia, The Mountains of Montenegro, Torres del Paine and St Oswald's Way, all published by Cicerone, National Geographic Traveller Croatia, and is co-author of Istria - The Bradt Travel Guide. He has also updated the Bradt guides to Croatia and Transylvania, and his work has been published widely in magazines and online.

In 2012 his article on the 16th-century pirates of the Croatian Adriatic, the Uskoks, published in hidden europe 34, secured an award for best travel feature from the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild, of which Rudolf is a member. He is also a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers. Current projects include Croatian Miscellany, an ongoing and deeply personal portrait of this southeast European country, as well as new guidebooks to Croatia's islands, Arctic Norway, the Faroes and the mountains of eastern Turkey.

He lives in London. Find out more about Rudolf's work on www.rudolfabraham.co.uk or visit his blog at rudolfabraham.wordpress.com.

This article was published in hidden europe 42.