Have you heard the tale of Filfla? Probably not. Even Malta aficionados, when listing the islands in the archipelago, often forget Filfla. Few Malta enthusiasts omit Gozo, Comino or even tiny Cominotto. But Filfla is Malta's forgotten island. It is a barren lump of rock, inhospitable and wild, set in the Mediterranean south of Malta itself.
The man in the café at Qrendi led us to a great hole in the ground at Il-Maqluba. "Here there was once a village," he explained.