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| a modified version of this text appears in the first issue
of hidden europe (no. 1/March 2005) |
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| So where does hidden europe actually come from? From
a garret in Reykjavik perhaps? Or a basement in Kiev? No, actually hidden
europe is produced in the very middle of Europe just a stone's throw
from the erstwhile border between West Berlin and the former German Democratic
Republic (the DDR). |
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| We are more or less at the junction of two of
Europe's truly great highways, the E30 and
the E55. Well, not actually right at the junction
but merely a few kilometres away. We're not sure that any living soul has
ever driven either the E30 or the E55 from end to end, but if they have,
we would certainly like to hear from them. The E30 is one of the world's
greatest overland routes, and the
E55 is no trifling byway
either.
It is among
the longest north-south roads on the whole continent. Both routes converge
from different directions near Berlin, briefly share a few kilometres of
the city's southern ring, then go their separate ways again. |
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A half hour sitting
by the side of that cardinal artery is enough to spot the licence
plates of a dozen or more European countries: Finland or Moldova,
Belarus or Bulgaria . . . this shared stretch of the E30 and
the E55 is paradise for those of more nerdish inclinations.
But somehow, number plates aside, these two roads between them
seem to sum up what hidden europe is all about.
The E30? Where does it actually go? It's often colloquially
referred to as the Moscow to Rotterdam highway, though in
truth it doesn't really go to Rotterdam, but passes some
way north of the Dutch city. Even to claim that the E30 runs
from Holland to Moscow is sorely to diminish this road's
full extent. For the E30 casts its tentacles much further
across the continent. It is the Eurasian equivalent of the
Pan American Highway.
The E30 links a port on Europe's Atlantic seaboard with
one on the Pacific. It starts in the southern Irish city
of Cork, and, aided and abetted by a ferry or two, traverses
Wales and southern England to reach the Hook of Holland.
And then via Den Haag and Hanover, passing close by the hidden
europe offices and over the Oder River into nearby Poland.
Then across the open expanses of White Russia and on to Moscow.
Now that's close on 3500 km already, but actually once it
reaches Moscow the E30 has run less than a third of its total
route.
For the E30, newly extended eastward a few months back,
when President Putin ceremonially opened a new bridge over
the Amur River, now traverses Siberia to reach the rocky
Pacific coast at Nakhodka – 9500 km east of Moscow!
It eastern extremity used to be the city of Celjabinsk, in
Russia's Ural region, where the E30 ground to an uncertain
end under the gaze of a monumental Lenin on Revolution Square.
No longer though! Nowadays, the once great tea trading city
of Celjabinsk is no more than a staging post on a much more
ambitious journey, one that takes the E30 east through Siberia,
and across swamps, forests and great rivers, only eventually
to end on the Pacific coast at Nakhodka, where the steamers
still set sail for Japan. |
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One of the more improbable scenes on the E30:
Polish garden gnomes awaiting German buyers |
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That makes the E30 the longest
numbered highway in the world, though British reticence to play the
European game means that the E30's very existence is kept curiously
secret by the British traffic authorities. The M4 from south Wales
towards London, as well as stretches of the A12 in eastern England
are designated elements of this great European highway, but you'll
search in vain for any hint of the E30 on the local traffic signs.
We think Nakhodka might be worth a trip sometime, even though its Far
East location renders it off limits for hidden europe. But it
would be good to see where the E30 ends, and the name itself is enticing:
Nakhodka means ‘discovery’ in Russian. |
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The other route that identifies us is
the E55. So what of that? It's one of Europe's longest north – south
routes. Its Mediterranean extremity is at Kalamata in southern Greece,
more famous for its olives than for long distance traffic, and the
road tracks north up through the Peloponnese into Epirus, hops over
to SE Italy on a ferry, then follows Italy's Adriatic Coast all the
way to Venice, before crossing the Alps to Salzburg and on through
Prague and Dresden to Berlin. No rest here, though, for the great
highway heads north to the Baltic, on to Copenhagen and to Helsingør
where it ends on the shore of the Öresund under the shadow of
Hamlet's great castle. Shakespearean trinkets abound, even though
the bard himself never went near the place. Nowadays, of course,
Rosencrantz and Guildenstern would, as likely as not, be long distance
truck drivers pondering their next trip south on the E55 rather than
courtiers exchanging banter with a wayward prince.
One day, when we've a week or two to spare, we'll head up to Helsingør,
stock up with a jar or two of Kalamata olives, and drive the E55
south. And if we can, we'll mark our arrival in Kalamata by buying
a copy of Shakespeare's Hamlet. As to the E30, well that would
take a month or more, and it's a journey which we'll start in Nakhodka
Port with a pint of Guinness, and end in Cork, where, surely, by
the time we make it, some enterprising soul will have opened a
Russian restaurant. If anyone does both the E30 and E55 trips before
us, let us know. It's roads we're talking about here, not food
additives!
For more on our Berlin home click here.
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